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Photography

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Addition by Silencingshorty:

-Dark Room Photography-

The process of taking a photograph and developing it is definatley a long and hard process to master. This process is as follows. First, loading film into a camera, reletively simple, especially if you're using an automatic camera. If you're going all manual, beginners may take a while.

After loading, the photographer must find something to take a photograph of. Say it's of a model. One must try to visualise what they want the end product to look like. They must get the lighting correct for the face, then adjust the aperture and shutter speed to the correct setting, as well as focus.

Processing film is a lot more nerve racking than creating actual prints. Firstly, you're in complete and total darkness for the beginning. If you mess this up, you won't know until the end. To process film, a light proof canester, film reels, a light proof tube and scissors are essential.

To begin, surround yourself in a completley light tight room. You must not be able to see anything. If you can see, there's an element of light. This is likely to 'fog' your film, or even destroy it; pending on how much light there is. Light is not allowed to touch the undeveloped negatives. This is because, when you take a photo, its image is imprinted onto the negative due to how much light it touches. If light touches the undeveloped negative, it will mess up the negatives.

From there, cut the negatives from their reel, so it's a long strip of film. Take one end and feed it onto the film reel. This keeps it nice and safge, as well as creating gaps for the chemicals to flow though. Once getting it onto the reel, feed the tube through the centre of the reel. Put the reel and tube into the canester and put the lid of the canester on top.

It would be a lot easier with pictures of the equipment used, but then again, I'm only trying to give a run down of the photography I love. ;)

From there, you develop the negatives with the correct amounts of water & developer, Stop, fixer, more water, ridfix, and more water. (I was always told 30mls of developer and 270mls of water to develop, 300mls of Stop, 300mls of fixer, rinse under water for 2 minutes, 300mls of ridfix and then 5 - 10mins under running water to finish.)

Let them dry, making sure no water marks are left on there, because they'll come up in the image when you print it.

Cut them up into strips and place them into their plastic covers.

Congrats! You now have a complete set of negatives! :)

Printing them, is kind of the same process. It involves developer, stop, fixing and lots of water. getting a print, however, is the somewhat tricksy part. Load the negative you want to print into the slot, and turn on the enlarger. Pretty much, this projects the image onto the base of the enlarger. This is where you put the paper.

Make sure the enlarged image is the right size for the paper you'll eventually put under there. Make sure it's in focus, and adjust the aperture for the right amount of light. The brighter the light, the less exposure time.

Most photographers do test strips. I had friends in my class who would never bother. I think this is quite stupid and wasteful. A test strip is where you cut up a larger bit of photographic paper into small strips, choose a time to expose it for, and expose the end of it, while having the rest of it covered up. If you then move the part you covered up along, without moving the photographic paper, so more paper is exposed. It's hard to explain, but say, for example, you were doing 4 second intervals. For the first exposure, there would be 4 seconds, and the rest of the paper would have nothing (because it's covered up). The second exposure would be 8 then 4, because you're re exposing some paper, and only just starting with the second part. From there it would be 12, 8 and then 4. and so on, and so on.

Take the exposed paper to the developer and dunk it in. The chemicals react to the exposure of the paper. The more the paper has been exposed to light, the more black the paper goes. If you expose the paper for to long, it will go black. The less you expose the paper, the more faded the image will be.

If the test stip is to grey, you must change the filter. The filter is a red slip that goes above the negative. It changes the light to make the blacks blacker and the whites brighter. In a nutshell, it ups the contrast.

Keep with the test strips until the image is how you want it to be.

After finding the correct time, print the bigger picture.

Ta-dah! Now you have an awesome print you can hopefully show off to your mates!

Now, the question is, which is better? Digital or Film? Digital, you can delete a picture you don't like, an print the ones you do. Film is a longer, more grueling process, but produces a finer result.

I like to think film as more of an art than digital photography. Mainly because I love it, it's a lot harder, and you think about every single aspect before taking the first shot. It's a lot more time consuming, and I know I'm more proud of my dark room images than my digital ones.

Photography

P Pronunciation Key (f

-t

-f

)
n.

The art or process of producing images of objects on photosensitive surfaces.
The art, practice, or occupation of taking and printing photographs.
A body of photographs.

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Source: The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition
Copyright © 2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company.
Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.

Photography @ Mindsay

Welcome to Photography @ Mindsay. Just for Mindsay users, you can upload photographs you've or your friends have taken. Be sure to give credit and get permission though if it's not your photographic works you're uploading! All photography must be unique and original or can be a re-creation of a photograph from another photographer. Make sure you show us the original photo and your re-creation for comparison! The mode of photos (greyscale, black and white, color, etc.) may be changed in Adobe Photoshop or Jasc Paint Shop Pro, so long as they are not edited or enhanced in any other way. With one exception - you may crop and resize images. Adding or removing borders is also accepted. Text at the bottom of your photograph for copyright reasons is permitted and encouraged.

Featured Tips:

Make-Up and Light Reflection

How many times have we taken photos of ourselves or subjects and then trashed them because they look greasy? Everyone's photogenic, it's a matter of skin tones and colors. The type of skin you have determines how lighting will reflect on it. Some people don't have skin as naturally oily as others, so they don't need any foundations when shooting. However, following these few simple steps will ensure a much better end result. Pictures have been added as a guide.

Instructions:

1. Our subject without any make-up. 6. Apply eyeshadow on eyelids and lighter shade of color chosen underneath eyebrows.

2. Tie back subject's hair. 7. Apply water-proof mascara.

3. Apply liquid, light-reflective foundation, 8. Apply long-lasting lipstick, and lipgloss for
varies depending on skin tone. extra shine.

4. Apply powder foundation to seal liquid 9. Apply blush, do not go any lower than foundation. cheekbones.

5. Apply eye-liner on the top and bottom. 10. Brush and mousse hair.

Voila! Our subject is now ready for the event!

Model: 7-year-old Tabitha
Note: Make-up was not done by a professional make-up artist. For guideline purposes only.
Tip submitted and images are copyright of bassistX

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