Surfing @ MindSay

today was about as perfect as a day could be. we headed for the coast, over the coastal range with clear skies and wonderful clouds--- which became more dense as we entered the coastal range. But driving over the crest everything cleared and we had a perfect view of Cannon Beach haystacks. We headed south to Oswald West State Park where the surfing is perfect and the water hellaciously cold. full body suits, helmets and gloves.

After drying off  and getting back into clothes we headed to Cannon Beach, my second or maybe third favorite coast town ( northern coast) and window shopped, visited our favorite glass artists at Ice Fire, combed both excellent and schlocky galleries and then when the tide was lowest and the sun beginning to set silver against the water we did some tide pooling near the Haystacks. Large Bat stars and tons of anemones, barnacles and mussels. But we got to see many varieties of gulls, some puffins and some fat dreamy little sandpiper-ish birds.

we considered eating at the beach but missed Abi and the leftovers in the fridge so in 90 minutes we were home, bathed, and eating tepid pizza. It was a great day and the air of generosity and sweetness between us  (ever since we have given daily time to reviewing the eight fold path) was is and will be a joy.

Bubbles sent me some great books and a wonderful card- how true it is about undies- and Jimmy decided to get me a small glass piece in a wonderful teal color. But on my actual birthday he is going to Blockbuster at 9 am, renting Sex and the City, picking up an ice cream cake and we will pig out with our favorite four women , their men, and our fantastically beloved Mr. Big.

I CANNOT WAIT FOR WINTER TO GET HERE.

 

 

People always ask me why I don't travel down to cali to do some surfing, why would anyone travel when it goes off like this in their backyard? Seriously. That's just retarded.

 

So the water's cold,  and the fish are large, big toothed, hungry, and numerous. It rains nearly everyday, and the wind peels the skin off your face, which is the only piece of skin exposed to the elements due to the 5/4 fullbody suit you're wearing....

 

It's all worth it. I don't have to battle people in the lineup, as the lineup is usually me and one or two other people if that. No crowds. Just me and the ocean.

 

She's a sexy bitch, that northern pacific ocean, and she only get's better from october on until february.

 

<3

here we are again,  today was the day of a buddy's surf invitational and it was pretty sweet.  lots of people showed, had a good run.  heather was supposed to show but chose instead to go shopping and spend the day w/ scott whom she is not boning in theory.  i can see the look of 'bone' in both their faces tho so i dont believe a word of it.  i am the nosy guy of the group and i make it my solemn duty to know the whereabouts and activities of everyone else in the group.  this is an official position.  as it would happen the majority of the group makes it a point to share these very things with me so it's obvious that they too recognize my importance.  all except for heather and scott anyway.  no one need fear tho becuz i will get to the bottom of this little mystery.  there is an attempt underway now to get some of the others blogging here so that i can run my own stripped down version of a gossip column.  then everyone can read about themselves and fight amongst one another via blog.  joke- no one actually argues w/anyone.  all in good fun.  for the record since it will be now painfully obvious that im not completely secure in my masculinity, i am not a gay aspiring gossip columnist and everyone should know that.  nothing wrong w/a hetero man displaying a love of the clearly gay trait of gossip. still, im not sure if it would make things easier or not beacuse of the advent of text messaging.  im pretty sure that verizon, cingular(at+t), sprint(nextel), and tmobile are cash cows becuz of all of us.  in one day a day last year heather clocked over 40 texts in a day (alright it was her birthdy but still)- all from differnt people- and i myself logged over 20.  thats a combined total of over 60 people.  now figure in brandon, amber, scott, amy, sofia, angie, lauren, karin, mike, eric, tom, ed, kelly, the other brandon, aaron, tim, ryan, dames, augustus serpentine lewellyn the 3d, pat, nick, the other mike, taylor, kim, adam, jack, serita, jill, sara, bruce, tara, and giles livingston havencrest-delorean-fumanchu the 1st and u get quite the network of calls, paging, texts and internet communiques burning up the airwaves.  heavy.  why was blogging even invented? im curious.  but ill admit it has a strange pull because i think its kinda dumb and yet here i am doing it.  huh. 

it's time for me to eat now, a practice im very fond of.  i really love to eat.  im gonna have me some beer, some chicken, some rice, some sweet potatoes, and a big bowl of green jell-o.

 

~~update- this was actually an entry that i started on a few days ago but just now got around to putting up.  since that time i have still not figured out whether scott and heather are boning, but i did discover that my buddy bruce is getting married.  scary.

     I’m alone. Not that it’s really a surprise, right? My parents are touring Europe but they forgot to invite me I guess. It’s all good though, who wants to go to Rome anyhow? At least it’s summer. I love summer. It’s that time of the year where you can relax and not worry about teachers or academics or any of that pointless shit. I do miss sports though. It’s the only part of school I connect with. I like being part of a team, being accepted, even if it’s only for an hour and a half on the playing field.

     The house is quiet with no one around except that damn gecko that always seems to find it’s way back inside the house. I swear I’ve set it loose a million times, but it just keeps coming back. Maybe God’s talking to me through this completely abstract example. Yes… you guessed it, I’m about to compare myself with a gecko. I guess in ways I keep trying to set myself free like the gecko, but I keep wallowing in all the pointless things in my life. I keep trapping myself again. Like, why do I feel like no one can ever reach through to me? Why do I think no one cares, and when they do care, because at times they do, why do I run? Why do I run away from them? Am I really so scared of someone’s embrace? I’m not sure. It’s something though.

     On a completely different subject, I went surfing this morning. I got up at dawn to catch the early bird waves. Daytona Beach has some killer waves if you go at the right time. There were a few others out there enjoying the big blue wet thing with me. I didn’t talk to them but we weren’t there to be social, we were there to soar, to think, to have fun. Whatever our reasons were, they were ours alone. After my surfing adventures I went home, made breakfast and vegged out, signed into my blog and here I am typing away. When I’m not on the waves and I’m not occupied it leaves me thinking. How the hell could my parents be so stupid? I try to tell myself that they are great people, hell they raised me and they give me everything I want and need. But why then… well, why am I alone?

                                                                                                                       Boy on the Run

Had a really good weekend. We went camping with the kids. HB was really great he did everything. Guilty conscience.

 

Anyway I realised that we get on so well. We have grown together so much that we share the same likes and dislikes, we almost know exactly what each other are thinking, and we know how to make each other laugh. Some people never find what we have and I’d be an idiot to throw that away over what is essentially a fantasy. And what happened was seven years ago and he has done nothing in that time to make me doubt him.

 

Before this weekend I was considering telling him everything. I felt like we were at a turning point, that if I got to base my decision to stay with everything on the table, then he should have the same right. But I’m a coward. I know what he would say. He would be fine, he would stay, he would be understanding but he would ask me to do exactly what I asked him to do back then. He would ask me never to speak with or contact Jaz again. Like I said, I am a coward. I’m just not prepared to do that. Partly because I still love her but more importantly because she is my best friend. I could live without her, but I don’t want to. She forces my out of my fantasy world and brings an important reality to my life. She’s very down to earth and no nonsense, and I need that.

 

BTW had the best surfing session this weekend. We just stopped by the side of the road at this little bay in the middle of nowhere just beyond the Lorne on the Surf Coast. Big factors were:

1) First time I’ve surfed decent, clean, small waves - perfect for practicing on.

2) First time I’ve surfed without a thick wet suit, which makes a huge difference to getting up quickly.

3) First time I’ve surfed decent waves with not a single other surfer on the water to avoid.

 

I’m never surfing in England again!!!

 

Song of the day:  P!nk - Don't let me get me.  

Countdown to P!nk in Rod Laver Arena: 50 days