Santiago @ MindSay

a while ago i wrote about the rennovation of the santiago, chile temple. i am truly delighted to finally write about it once more. i was overwhelmed with such a variety of feelings.... i can only attempt to penetrate you with words that were in no wise necessary to elicit the same response in me.

i ever told myself i would marry in the dc temple. it's always struck me as by far the most beautiful. more than that, it was the closest to home. as i walked through the santiago, chile temple today, freshly rennovated, i felt so close to this temple that had wrought such a change of heart in the last year. a year ago- was it really that long ago?- i sat on the fountain right in front of that temple and my a vow to myself, then and there.  i visited the same spot several times- reviewing the progress or lack of from the previous visit. and it is finally done. oh, finally! always room for more progress though.

walking through it... i can only say that i wanted more than ever to be married in the temple. more specifically, the santiago, chile temple. how would that work? and who would attend? but we are such dear friends. we've supported each other through trying times. i shouldn't wish such extravagant things. what difference does it make which house i'm in, as long as i am in His house. but still, there's nothing wrong with favorites. there's nothing wrong with an inordinate desire. but i can't help thinking i would do anything to marry in the santiago temple.

   Friday night marked the beginning of a new stage in my life:  I have now seen (and enjoyed) a genuine opera.  I have always loved musicals and theatre productions from both sides of the stage, however, when a few "more cultured" European friends suggested an evening at the opera, I was a bit skeptical.  Initial feelings of hesitancy increased when my friends arrived late and we were unable to enter the theatre, encouraged instead to watch the first 53 minutes of Carmen on a large TV screen in the lobby. 

   Once inside, however, I was able to enjoy the true "opera experience."  Santiago`s gorgeous Teatro Municipal is filled with antique chandeliers and traditional red velvet seating-(my favorite amenity, however, was the subtle screen situated above the stage, which displayed Spanish subtitles throughout the performance.  Since I have never studied French-and opera is hard to understand regardless of the language-the subtitles were much appreciated.)  I did, however, recognize several of the songs, many of which are played repeatedly on Saturday morning cartoon shows.  Dinner in one of Santiago`s classier neighborhoods (brandy soup and almond ravioli) completed the evening. 

    Saturday morning a few friends and I tried something else new:  the Chilean version of blueberry pancakes.  "Panqueques" here are always crepes, and we had yet to find a restaurant serving traditional US breakfast food.  As we perused the menu, delirious with the promise of fried eggs, hash browns, and french toast (all outrageously expensive,) I acknowledged my newfound appreciation for Denny`s.  The restaurant, Cafè Melba, is located in the heart of Santiago`s wealthy East side, ("The dogs here are brushed and there are no loose power lines," my friend observed.)  However, strolling past a nearby street filled with US restaurants, we decided that guests at the nearby upscale hotels would not obtain a very complete view of Santiago if they limited themselves to this neighborhood.

    A few hours later I was on the bus to Valparaíso, savoring a chicken sandwich (another milestone, this is the first "non-ham-and-cheese-sandwich" I have been served by my host mother since arriving in Santiago nearly 4 months ago.)  Since it was already dark when our bus arrived, we warily accepted the bus station offer of a nearby hostal and were pleasantly surprised.  Featuring hot water and two bathrooms for $8/night (per person,) the hostal was also centrally located. 

   After dropping off our luggage we headed to a classic Chilean bar for drinks and the Bolivia/Chile fùtbol game.  Screaming with the locals each time Chile scored a goal and scarfing down fries smothered in steak and eggs was a true cultural experience.  Though the bar was supposed to feature live music on weekends, the unfortunate musician was booed off the stage when he interrupted the game with his accordion.

   Sunday was spent exploring the coastal roads and hills of Valpo.  Our first stop was Plaza Victoria, a smaller version of Santiago`s Plaza de Armas, featuring a small carnival, an enormous tree (which one of my friends was anxious to climb) and countless vendors and families enjoying the 60 degree weather.  On the other side of the main street, lined with palm trees, was "Vitamin Service," a curiously christened ice cream shop noted by the guide books for its "scrumptious sandwiches."  We, however, were more impressed by the 2-for-1 ice cream deal.  Unaware of the deal, we ordered 4 flavors. 

   8 scoops of ice cream later, we took acensor (cable car) Espiritù Sanctu up one of Valpo`s many hills, hoping to emerge near our destination, Pablo Neruda`s "La Sebastiana."  Neruda`s third house in Chile, "La Sebastiana" features his trademark nautical decor and collections of interesting souvenirs.  Fortunately, the acensor took us only partially up the hill, and (though this required another exhausting half hour of ascent) it gave us the opportunity to walk past countless murals painted on the surrounding buildings.  The views of the harbor from Neruda`s house were magnificent, and we decided to sit outside after our tour and watch the sun set over the water. 

   Though it was now growing dark, I was determined to show my friends one more Valpo landmark, "Brighton," the restaurant with the great view and fabulous milkshakes I remembered from my previous visit.  "It`s on a hill, overlooking the water," I recalled; "It`s yellow."  My friends proceeded to point out various yellow buildings dotting the surrounding hills, all of them with excellent views of the harbor.  However, in the spirit of our family vacations, I was undeterred and led them in (what I remembered as) the general direction.  We navigated the maze of back streets and sketchy alleys, reaching Brighton a few short hours later.  (Though they seemed a little discouraged at times, morale improved when I offered to buy everyone dinner if we were going the wrong way.)  As I remembered, the view and the milkshakes made the journey worthwhile.    

    There are mixed feelings in the Study Abroad World.  Some feel it is best to see as much as you can (several of our fellow van passengers from Mendoza displayed 30+ passport stamps,) while others deem it better to immerse yourself in one area/culture and really get a feel for the place you are living.  Considering both  perspectives, I decided that (after three consecutive weekends of travel) it was time to see a little more of Santiago.  
     My friend`s party early in the week provided an opportunity to immerse ourselves in the "Chilean University Culture."  This included, among other things, a lively discussion of the situation at the University of Chile, which, (along with other universities nationwide,) is currently "en toma"- taken over by the students-with all classes suspended.  We recounted feeling slightly alarmed when greeted by large signs proclaiming "En Toma" as we attempted to attend class Tuesday afternoon.  However, our fellow guests clarified that this "toma" is probably less complex than we`d imagined, often comprised of students, (equipped with only the bare essentials:  sleeping bags and an ample supply of pisco,) camped out in front of the classroom doors.  My host family later commented that this is a nearly annual occurrence, though it often cuts into summer vacation since the students have to make up classes later in the year.

    Fortunately, cultural events have continued, and I was able to attend a classical concert at the university later in the week.  The concert site, Campus Oriente, (formerly a monastery,) features an enormous cathedral, with amazing acoustics and better heating than my apartment. 

    The weather here, although sunny and 60ish today, has been in the high 40`s (F) and rainy for the past few weeks.  Central heating is nearly unheard of, thus my house (like many of my friends`) features only one prized "calefacciòn" (space heater) which is moved from room to room as needed.  I imagine Christmas cards displaying all family members gathered together, drinking eggnog in front of their sole calefacciòn.

   With my host sister`s recommendations, I was able to explore some of Santiago`s discount shopping areas later in the week.  Amazing how one`s conception of expensive is influenced by the environment; after countless discount sweater booths even a $5mil ($10) sweater seemed outrageously overpriced.  Patronato (the discount neighborhood) also includes several cheap shoe stores, though the shoes displayed are often not even remotely similar to those actually for sale.  Store owners do their best to convince wary customers that "Sketchers often goes by a different name," and the peeling rubber soles can be "easily glued back on."  Fortunately, the movie prices are also cheaper than in the States, and with a student discount we were able to view "Star Wars Episodio III" for approx. $4.

    It seemed as though all of Santiago was out on Sunday for "Corpus Cristì" services and El Dìa de Patrimonio.  Nearly all of the city`s museums, government buildings, and landmarks were open for complimentary touring, and the street markets were particularly crowded.  Highlights included a gigantic sand mural near the Plaza de Armas, (home of Santiago`s famous cathedral,) several interesting street performers, and an ambitious dog trying to pull a picnic blanket out from under a sleeping woman in the park.  Countless white tents crowd the plazas and the streets, and we were able to continue our shopping, browsing through woven sweaters, chocolate dipped apples, and every religious article imaginable (St. Teresa coffee mugs, etc.)   

    Although it will be nice not having to deal with pollution or public transportation in WI, I think I will miss all of the activity that comes with living in a city of 5 million.  I certainly discovered that is not necessary to leave Santiago to see and experience new things.