Lava @ MindSay 
volcano
My most recent pic of Poas Volcano; once again deemed safe to visit!
Pura vida! Today was the first time I was able to sleep through the roosters crowing and stay asleep until 7 AM. We are starting our directed research today. It is a great feeling to have nothing I have to do besides write my blog and focus on the Poás Volcano project. Still wearing my pajamas, Raven’s boxer shorts and Carrie’s navy tank top, I took the long way through the gardens to breakfast. The green beans we planted six weeks ago are now heavily laden with long crisp vegetables. I greedily munched on them and then picked a bunch to share with my friends. But I was sidetracked when I saw Fabian and asked him to see the two week old puppies. There are two baby girl Doberman pinchers, one red like their mom and one black like their dad Binki. Yesterday, the pudgy puppies first opened their eyes. The mom is very gentle and she let me hold them. There a few things as sweet as baby puppies. Period.
I love lazy days! It was a shame that it took me and Karen from 10 AM – 3 PM to format and edit the survey we will be asking 150 people who live outside of Poas Park. But I can’t complain considering the fact that I am in beautiful Costa Rica and there are lots of goodies in the kitchen to snack on like hot, fresh empanadas (pastries stuffed with pineapple and other fruit).
After finishing data entry, I hung out in the pool with Sue and Amy and sewed my white skirt and tank top. We are having trouble dealing with the concept of free time after the first two months which were so intensively micromanaged. But I don’t feel I can possibly get bored. I want to travel but I’m being lazy about organizing a trip. I really want to go Scuba diving before I leave. I feel like I’m the only one who isn’t feeling broke right now. I budgeted to spend $800 and I have only spent $450 so far. Grrr. I want travel buddies with money!
Brenna stands in the wind at the look out point in front of Poas Volcano on the day the park resumed normal hours because it was deemed safe again.
Tonight after making mint icing for Erin’s chocolate cake with mint that Karen and I picked from the herb garden, Starbuck joined me out in the hammocks and read aloud the beginning of a book that I think is called Dog Days. She’s got a clear, even reading voice. The nights have gotten so warm that I no longer need a big sleeping bag instead I just use the sheet Carrie sewed into a bag. I cannot emphasize enough how much I love going to sleep peeking out at the stars and listening to all the night sounds. It’s almost like a religion.
Underside of a "Poor Man's Umbrella."
Yoshi and Meg sit by "Poor Man's Umbrella's" that have been damaged by acid rain caused by the recent volcanic activity of Poas Volcano.
In the morning, I woke up and noticed that a new tree is blooming with yellow blossoms I have never seen before. Glorious! I skip out on running, roll onto my belly, and watch the birds until it’s time to shower (I hate showering without running because the icy water sends pins and needles through your spine and you end up either arching your back so that just your head gets wet or doing a modified Harlem shake because it’s that cold! But if you go running it feels great.) I eat crunchy granola with runny yogurt and pack an unappetizing cheese sandwich for lunch before popping on the 7 AM bus.
A view out our van window of the valley below.
Friday was our first day of surveys in the communities outside of Volcan Poas National Park. Our 12 member directed research project divided into 4 groups to tackle the interview. I worked with the lovely Yoshi from Japan and Karen from El Salvador. Our countries of origin were a great ice breaker for some of the interviews with people who had spent their entire lives in the small neighborhood of Poasito outside Volcan Poas National Park.
One of the many businesses we interviewed to determine the economic impact of the volcanic eruptions.
Oil slick on the parking lot in front of the above souvenir shop. Yes I get carried away taking pictures!
Yoshi, Karen, and I took turns leading our interviews. We always insisted that as a native Spanish speaker, Karen go first so that we could imitate her during the following interviews. I really appreciated how kind and supportive Karen was with our Spanish grammar and pronunciation. I still have trouble with the double “r” sound of the word sujerencias (which means suggestions).
An Easter Week Parade outside of Volan Poas National Park.
The Ticos we interviewed on Friday were very warm and welcoming. Many invited us inside to sit. (I’ve decided that whenever anyone comes to my door for an interview I will invite them in and give them cookies). Most people were completely fine with us playing with their dogs and picking up and coddling their babies. They just laughed if the baby started to cry. There were adorable toddlers and fuzzy puppies in this town of strawberry farmers. Our last two interviews of the day were both at the same house where we talked to an elderly gentleman while his 18 year old granddaughter filled it out. The intergenerational differences were striking in that the older people didn’t seem to grasp the concept of rating the strength of their belief on a scale of 1-5. They offered antidotes as to why they felt the way they did but ranking was a foreign idea. In contrast the younger generation quickly filled out the surveys themselves rather than dictating their answers.
Fresh Produce for sale in Poasito, Costa Rica.
Saturday, we had a strange source of error; competition with Jehovah’s witnesses. Simultaneously as we were conducting our survey Saturday morning, Jehovah’s witnesses were sharing their religious views. Like us these messengers were college aged and dressed nicely, except they carried umbrellas to protect themselves from the sun. All of the houses that had their doors wide open on Friday were locked up with bolted gates. Humorously we knew people were home from the many radios blasting and the chatter that could be heard from the kitchens. But no use. Some of the surveys were conducted by passing the paper through the barred gate to a child who ran it into their parents and then waiting patiently for it to be eventually returned. Though funny, it was rather frustrating. A slogan that Chelsea coined for our T-shirts was, “We are here to save the world…We don’t care about your souls!” Don’t you think everyone would love that? hehe J
Sue, Chelsea, Brenna, and Erin group hug while interviewing in front of a grocery store.
My favorite aspects of conducting these interviews are getting to practice Spanish, meet new people, and try local cuisine like empanadas de papas (similar to a Cornish Pasty) and strawberry milkshakes. Did I mention strawberry milkshakes? Oh, yeah strawberry milkshakes. You know those expensive Costa Rican grown strawberries you get year round in the Food Lion and Safeway? I just got to try some of them fresh off the vine from a local farmer who was late to work but felt bad about denying us a survey. He left for work at 11:15 AM when he was supposed to be there at 11. I love Tico time!
Yoshi and Karen enjoy his gift of fresh picked organic strawberries!
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Now I'm going to try and hail a cab to Playa Estarilla which is supposed to have lots of fossils and a giant stone sculture of a couple making love in the surf. I've never been there. But Karen's host Mom's brother Beto called his friend who runs a fishing boat out there and he said we could camp for free in his backyard. Beto told us to take the second road past Playa Hermosa to the beach, walk along the beach until we find two restaurants. Then I'm supposed to ask the restaurant owner where Minor Mora lives and he should point me to his cabin. None of these people speak English.
I'm doubting myself a little, but hey you only live once. Wish me luck.
Luv,
Tammy 
Active Masaya Volcano.
Lizzie and Maggie pose in front of the massive Masaya Volcano.
12:09 PM, TUESDAY
Yoshi, Meg, and I embrace the wind on the ridge. Photo by Karen Cruz.
This is my view while I sit and write the blog. Can you make out the larger Mombacho Volcano in the background? The dark spots on the ground are cloud shadows.
Right now I am sitting on the ridge of Masaya Volcano crater looking out over Masaya lagoon. In the background is Mombacho Volcano. Underneath me is a surprisingly comfortable pile of volcanic rock ranging in color from black to gray to burgundy and ochre. There is a strong wind so I am completely comfortable despite the hot sun. I like it here. I think I could sit all afternoon just watching the shadows of the clouds rolling across the valley below.
The melted igneous rock roof of the lava cave.
The dark areas in the cave wall are wet cracks that result from tree roots among other factors.
Nicaragua is amazing! After standing above the breathtaking crater we ventured below into a lava tube that was burned into the igneous rock when a river of flowing, hot lava spouted from the pressure below. The roof of the cavern featured what looked like a domes where large bubbles of hot gas had been trapped. Elsewhere the igneous rock ceiling looked like a freeze frame of melted, drippy liquid. The ranger, Carlos, estimated that the cave was about 800 years old.
We enter the lava tube at Masaya Volcano.
Carlos our guide at the entrance to the lava tube.
In order to simulate what it feels like to be one of the bats that inhabits the lava tube, Carlos had us all turn off our headlamps and stand quietly. Once the initial giggling subsided we heard bats and maybe crickets. I thought I could see because my vision seemed more textured than straight black darkness. But when I tried holding my hand in front of my face I realized that I truly couldn’t see anything! 15-17 meters below the earth’s surface I felt no fear, simply elation. I really loved seeing the bottom of the tree roots and breathing in the cool, sweet, damp, earthy smell.
I pose in the cave with my headlamp and the tree roots.
This is a mural of the March 16, 1772 erruption of Masaya Volcano when it emitted lava into the lagoon for several days. Locals from the town of Nindiri are depicted proceeding with religious symbols to save their homes from the volcano.
Walking back I had a chat with Carlos and I was surprised by his sense of national pride as well as his optimism for the future of his country. I chatted with Meg about my surprise and she seemed to think that as outsiders we are more objective and able to see problems. But I think it may be a cultural or an underdog thing. I am from the United States, one of the world’s wealthiest most powerful nations, yet I am full of criticism for my country. I have the freedom, time, and education to be critical. Both the United States and Nicaragua suffer from political corruption, nepotism, as well as laws and regulations that exist only on paper because they are not enforced.
A view of Masaya Volcano from our hike atop the adjacent dormant volcano.
Karen flies atop the dormant volcano with a little bit of help from Mare.
After hiking around the volcano we took a bus ride to Lake Apoyo. This freshwater lake had warm clear water. It was the first place that I have ever been able to open my eyes underwater and see without them burning! This was definitely a pleasure for me after spending 4 summers life guarding and teaching swim lessons in highly chlorinated pools. Ten feet into the lake the black sand bottom dropped away at what felt like a 45 degree angle. It was amazing to be able to swim again. This is without a doubt the most beautiful lake I have seen in my entire life. It is surrounded by palm trees with a volcano in the background. An occasional kingfisher flies above the clear, mildly brackish water. I dove, flipped, did handstands, and practiced the water polo “egg beater” kick while watching my friends propel each other through the air. I wanted to swim as long as I could and I had a very strong desire to swim laps parallel to the shore but I didn’t because I didn’t want to stress out our Red Cross Lifegaurds.
A bull wondering alongside the road at Lake Apoyo.
Motezuma Oropendula nests. Their community structure helps provide a common defense against parasitism by Giant Cowbirds.
Nicaragua’s national bird the Turquoise Browed Mot Mot.
Did you know that most Nicaraguans can’t swim? Two died in the lake this past weekend at a fancy resort. Dr. Jeff McCrary told us the disgusting story about how the resort wouldn’t let anyone get the body of the man who fell off their dock because they were concerned about negative media attention. This resort was actually built illegally inside the nature reserve. People who want to make a quick buck illegally construct homes in the nature reserve and then sell the homes to Americans and other foreigners who then have to deal with the legal repercussions. People should really do their homework before buying land.
After hiking through lava tubes and other adventures we take a dip in Lake Apoyo which according to Jeff McCrary, Ph.D has the lowest elevation of any point in Latin America. Jeff has discovered at least 3 new species of Cichlids in this Lake.
After swimming and dinner, Jeff McCrary, Ph.D. gave my favorite lecture of the entire semester. He is a passionate, intelligent environmentalist with long disheveled brown hair and common clothes. I am in complete awe and want to work with him. He’s been in Nicaragua for 18 years and is working with local artisan communities to empower them to come up with their own plans for sustainable management. Along with a partner from Spain he fights illegal developers like an Australian millionaire.
After long, hot hikes rugged chicks exfoliate with volcanic rocks to make sure their feet are soft and smooth J Photo by the lovely Mare.
yay i got a new cool lava lamp ^_^ it is grey with flames on it and the lava is black, its awesome i love it!
she rumbles
her brown eyes red
with rage
her pale cheeks dark
with disgust
she twists her face away
like a sudden sunset
exhales one huff
like dragon fire
and snaps her gaze back
like a slingshot rubber band
you know why you make me so mad, don't you?
she fumes
her pink lips
a volcano mouth
smoking and steaming
then exploding erupting every
reason feeling thought word lava
snaking slinking slithering spidering
crawling down and down and down
like liquid fingers or claws of burning truth
boring into me your mountainside of the moment.