Geyser @ MindSay

  We spent two days along the way in Wyoming and Idaho- mostly backroads, then through Grand Teton National Park on our way to Yellowstone.  The mountain views are breathtaking. . . . even as we leave them behind:

The animals in Yellowstone sometimes interact nonchalantly - seemingly unaware of an audience.  Here, this female coyote stalked, caught, and ate a ground squirrel before wandering off into the woods. 

Along the Firehole River, waterfalls and birds caught our attention.  The traditional swimming holes were all closed in this naturally heated water source,  not sure if the reason was heavy runoff or environmental damage.  Either way, it was a small price to pay to assure we and our grandchildren will be able to return to this untamed land for years to come.

   Here we spot a blue heron riverside and she spreads her wings, flies to a nearby branch and preens.

  Sunset glow along the riverside- we set up our chairs and enjoy the moment

  Geyser basin trail at sunset- the crowds have dispersed and we are left with a small group of sunset and geyser watchers.... here we get the brilliant eruption and evening color display that I enjoyed photographing until it was too dark to see much.

  We left the park via the northeast exit- enjoying a couple of days in the Lamar Valley area.  The wildlife abounds in this immense grassland- it is hard to grasp the size and diversity of this place alone.

   Here was a curious encounter. . . we saw the coyote first and assumed he was stalking the deer- but that notion was soon corrected by this fearless doe who was charging two coyotes, we assume to protect a nearby fawn, although we never saw any other deer in the area.  She won this conflict and sent the canines on their way!

Fairy Falls - 190 ft falls emerges after a hike through the burn-recovery area.  It is amazing to see the natural recovery of an area so devastated less than 20 years ago. 

Continuing the hike across the Imperial Meadow area, we find a bison carcass blocking the trail at one point.

  And a marmot who has taken up residence in a pile of lumber.

  The blurble of mud pots are a distinctive sound (perhaps I should post a video of this for the audio...)

 Grazing elk don't bother with us as we walk by.

This first National Park remains a favorite of ours. . . we'll be back!

We are on our way home, I am trying to go through some photos whenever I get a chance.... Idaho, Yellowstone, Pennsylvania, D.C. and Virginia are highlights. 

Here is a short video of a sunset geyser eruption - Fountain and Spasm geyser in midway geyser basin on July 1st (our first night in YNP).  The video isn't as colorful or steam-filled as some of the stills, but the sound and motion adds to the experience.

    4am.  Bitter cold.  19 cummulative layers of clothing.  My two friends and I boarded the "Geyser Tour" van anxious to catch a glimpse of dramatic eruptions in the rising sun.  However, we arrived at the world's highest geothermic field with hours to spare, prompting a few of our fellow tourists to disregard our guide's warnings and attempt to navigate around the geysers in the dark. 

   Fortunately, it was soon light enough to see, and we were able to get a closer look at the geysers and more colorful "mud geysers."  After observing the carefully constructed walkways and countless signs surrounding the geysers at Yellowstone National Park, I was surprised when the guide invited us to stroll freely in the field, and even more surprised to see people walking near, peering into, and even reclining against some of the geysers.  One guide, anxious to serve hot instant coffee to his group, had tossed a box of milk into one of the geysers and was impatiently waiting for it to heat.  Over breakfast, our guide congratulated us on our success in navigating the field, and concluded with a few stories of those who had not been so lucky.  I felt as though we had passed some sort of test, earning the privilege of exploring The Cactus Forest, our next destination.

   Shedding layers, we continued through the desert, reaching the cactus forest a few hours after sunrise.  What we initially assumed was a scenic overlook turned out to be a three hour hike, winding us through canyons, next to 15 foot cacti, and past a waterfall. 

   Mesmerized by the breathtaking views and satisfied with our choice of tours, no one realized the bus tickets were disappearing: by the time we returned to San Pedro, all buses to Santiago and San Pedro (our two final destinations) were booked.  Naturally, all of the hostals were full; when I inquired about a room at one of the more expensive options, the receptionist took one look at my dusty sweatshirt and dirty jeans and announced (in perfect English) "This hotel is expensive."  Elated to discover a hostal with vacancies, we tossed our luggage in the room and collapsed on the beds, no questions asked.  A few minutes later, we discovered that the hostal had neither water nor electricity.  All was "being renovated."

   One 22 hour bus ride later, we found ourselves back in Santiago.  After one last brunch with friends, one last "night on the town" (dinner atop a classy revolving restaurant,) one last micro ride, and one last wave at "my friends the constuction workers," I boarded the plane for Atlanta.  Wednesday, July 13th, I touched down at O'hare, 148 days after departure.

   In the days since then, I've re-entered US culture.  I've grown accustomed to using only English words (rather than the awful Spanglish spoken by "the gringos of Chile,") rediscovered the joys of cranberry juice, driving, peanut butter and jelly, drinking fountains and the consistent presence of tp and soap in public restrooms.  I have been able to see (for the first time) the true wealth of the States and how much is taken for granted.  I truly appreciate the open fields and cleaner air (not to mention the weather; everyone here is surprised to learn that it's winter in South America.)  

   Along with the excitement of the initial "tourist phase" of re-entry, I am beginning to miss aspects of my life in Chile.  I miss empanadas and Chilean chocolate, I miss my doting host mom, who would not even let me stir my own coffee, I miss my friends.  But at the same time, it's so hard to believe it's over; as one of my friends said, it feels as though I could wake up in Chile any minute.       

   After some essential grocery shopping and laundry, we boarded yet another Turbus Tuesday night, trading the (comparatively) balmy breezes of Iquique for the cooler "antiplano" climate of San Pedro de Atacama, a small desert community nestled between soaring volcanoes on the Bolivian/Chilean border.  Weary from travel and finally accustomed to the economic practice of sleeping on buses, we were startled awake when the bus pulled unexpectedly into a dark security station a few hours into our journey.  Shaking off sleep, we stumbled out of the bus and were immediately surrounded by security guards, who proceeded to perform a thorough search of the bus, luggage, and passengers.  Though familiar with the customs procedure, we were confused because our journey did not involve a border crossing; I was later informed that we were likely being searched for drugs, considering the region`s thriving cocaine industry.  Fortunately, the bus was permitted to continue, and after a brief transfer we arrived in San Pedro just as the sun was rising. 

   At first glance, San Pedro, a community of less than 1,000, appears small.  However, after lugging our duffels and suitcases down countless dirt roads we realized that we would have plenty to explore.  Thus began the quest to book tours.  We surveyed our options, met up with a few friends, consulted a few guidebooks, and were eventually able to negotiate three days worth of affordable tours.  After a brief look around the city, (San Pedro's cathedral was constructed without the use of a single nail,) we were herded into a sturdy looking 12-person van, ready for our initial exploration. 

    Tour 1 included photo stops at Valle de la Muerte (Valley of Death) and Valley de la Luna (Valley of the Moon, referred to as "the loneliest place on Earth") both of which are popular testing sites for lunar spacecraft due to their moon-like conditions.  Our next stop was a national reserve, where we were able to photograph numerous rock formations and try a little spelunking (head lamps provided.)  Much of San Pedro's desert is comprised of salt deposits, and streaks of rough salt streaked the inside of the caves.  Emerging from the caves, we were invited to scale an enormous sand dune, thus obtaining the optimal viewpoint to enjoy the setting sun reflecting off the nearby mountain ranges.  As glowing reds and warm golds turned to icy purples, our guide pointed out several active volcanos visible in the distance.  Though all valiantly attempted to capture the wonder of the desert sunset, pictures just can't do justice.

    Tour 2, "A Day in Bolivia," began at sunrise our second day.  After a brief bus ride to the border, the six of us survived customs and piled into the back of a freezing cold jeep, anxious for our first glance at another "off-the-beaten-path" country.  Though no one was anxious to brave the 12 degree (Fahrenheit) wind chill at our first scenic overlook, turquoise Laguna Verde, our subsequent stop at volcanic hot springs was much more well-received, and we eagerly joined a few other tourist groups thawing their feet in the steamy mineral water.  Anticipating only the three lakes promised on the tour brochure, I was thrilled to see steam pouring from the ground when our driver pulled off the road unexpectedly.  My sole experience with geysers was on a family vacation to Yellowstone National Park years ago, and it was nice to get another whiff of sulfur.  After lunch and some interaction with the local llamas, we proceeded to our final destination, Laguna Colorada, characterized by its bright pink water (tinted by algae,) and correspondingly bright pink flamingos!  Though three species of flamingos frequent Laguna Colorada, we were satisfied to see several members of one species relaxing among the ice chunks on the lake.  3 rolls of film later, we returned to make tea and sleep before our 4am geyser tour  the following morning.