Active Masaya Volcano.

Lizzie and Maggie pose in front of the massive Masaya Volcano.

12:09 PM, TUESDAY

Yoshi, Meg, and I embrace the wind on the ridge. Photo by Karen Cruz.

This is my view while I sit and write the blog. Can you make out the larger Mombacho Volcano in the background? The dark spots on the ground are cloud shadows.

Right now I am sitting on the ridge of Masaya Volcano crater looking out over Masaya lagoon. In the background is Mombacho Volcano. Underneath me is a surprisingly comfortable pile of volcanic rock ranging in color from black to gray to burgundy and ochre. There is a strong wind so I am completely comfortable despite the hot sun. I like it here. I think I could sit all afternoon just watching the shadows of the clouds rolling across the valley below.

The melted igneous rock roof of the lava cave.

The dark areas in the cave wall are wet cracks that result from tree roots among other factors.

Nicaragua is amazing! After standing above the breathtaking crater we ventured below into a lava tube that was burned into the igneous rock when a river of flowing, hot lava spouted from the pressure below. The roof of the cavern featured what looked like a domes where large bubbles of hot gas had been trapped. Elsewhere the igneous rock ceiling looked like a freeze frame of melted, drippy liquid. The ranger, Carlos, estimated that the cave was about 800 years old.

We enter the lava tube at Masaya Volcano.

Carlos our guide at the entrance to the lava tube.

In order to simulate what it feels like to be one of the bats that inhabits the lava tube, Carlos had us all turn off our headlamps and stand quietly. Once the initial giggling subsided we heard bats and maybe crickets. I thought I could see because my vision seemed more textured than straight black darkness. But when I tried holding my hand in front of my face I realized that I truly couldn’t see anything! 15-17 meters below the earth’s surface I felt no fear, simply elation. I really loved seeing the bottom of the tree roots and breathing in the cool, sweet, damp, earthy smell.

I pose in the cave with my headlamp and the tree roots.

This is a mural of the March 16, 1772 erruption of Masaya Volcano when it emitted lava into the lagoon for several days. Locals from the town of Nindiri are depicted proceeding with religious symbols to save their homes from the volcano.

Walking back I had a chat with Carlos and I was surprised by his sense of national pride as well as his optimism for the future of his country. I chatted with Meg about my surprise and she seemed to think that as outsiders we are more objective and able to see problems. But I think it may be a cultural or an underdog thing. I am from the United States, one of the world’s wealthiest most powerful nations, yet I am full of criticism for my country. I have the freedom, time, and education to be critical. Both the United States and Nicaragua suffer from political corruption, nepotism, as well as laws and regulations that exist only on paper because they are not enforced.

A view of Masaya Volcano from our hike atop the adjacent dormant volcano.

Karen flies atop the dormant volcano with a little bit of help from Mare.

After hiking around the volcano we took a bus ride to Lake Apoyo. This freshwater lake had warm clear water. It was the first place that I have ever been able to open my eyes underwater and see without them burning! This was definitely a pleasure for me after spending 4 summers life guarding and teaching swim lessons in highly chlorinated pools. Ten feet into the lake the black sand bottom dropped away at what felt like a 45 degree angle. It was amazing to be able to swim again. This is without a doubt the most beautiful lake I have seen in my entire life. It is surrounded by palm trees with a volcano in the background. An occasional kingfisher flies above the clear, mildly brackish water. I dove, flipped, did handstands, and practiced the water polo “egg beater” kick while watching my friends propel each other through the air. I wanted to swim as long as I could and I had a very strong desire to swim laps parallel to the shore but I didn’t because I didn’t want to stress out our Red Cross Lifegaurds.

A bull wondering alongside the road at Lake Apoyo.

Motezuma Oropendula nests. Their community structure helps provide a common defense against parasitism by Giant Cowbirds.

Nicaragua’s national bird the Turquoise Browed Mot Mot.

Did you know that most Nicaraguans can’t swim? Two died in the lake this past weekend at a fancy resort. Dr. Jeff McCrary told us the disgusting story about how the resort wouldn’t let anyone get the body of the man who fell off their dock because they were concerned about negative media attention. This resort was actually built illegally inside the nature reserve. People who want to make a quick buck illegally construct homes in the nature reserve and then sell the homes to Americans and other foreigners who then have to deal with the legal repercussions. People should really do their homework before buying land.

After hiking through lava tubes and other adventures we take a dip in Lake Apoyo which according to Jeff McCrary, Ph.D has the lowest elevation of any point in Latin America. Jeff has discovered at least 3 new species of Cichlids in this Lake.

After swimming and dinner, Jeff McCrary, Ph.D. gave my favorite lecture of the entire semester. He is a passionate, intelligent environmentalist with long disheveled brown hair and common clothes. I am in complete awe and want to work with him. He’s been in Nicaragua for 18 years and is working with local artisan communities to empower them to come up with their own plans for sustainable management. Along with a partner from Spain he fights illegal developers like an Australian millionaire.

After long, hot hikes rugged chicks exfoliate with volcanic rocks to make sure their feet are soft and smooth J Photo by the lovely Mare.