Nearly everyone we met in Buenos Aires, including the other travelers at our hostel, mentioned an exclusive restaurant/club downtown called Million. Built in a restored four story mansion sandwiched between two high rise buildings, Million provided the perfect place to spend a Friday night, and feature the best drink list I`ve ever seen! We discussed future travel plans over drinks and a cheese tray, and rubbed elbows with the Rich and Famous of Buenos Aires, most of whom were dressed scantily (at least the females) and wearing fur. Our good fortune lasted til 4am, when all "non-members" are discreetly asked to leave.
Saturday morning brought a trip to the famous cemetary (and resting place of Evita) in Recoleta. I was expecting Arlington`s counterpart, but this cemetary was unlike anything I have ever seen. Instead of tombstones, the walkways of the cemetary were lined with stone houses, adorned with intricate carvings and 7ft. statues of angels. Although most were the size of a garden
shed, others were larger and had 2 or three stories. Most featured windows, doors, and staircases, where layers of caskets were visible. Apparently above ground burial (also popular in New Orleans) was an expensive choice for wealthy coastal families, due in part to the high water table. Vendor stands and cake sellers surrounded the cemetary gates, and provided a good opportunity for more Spanish practice. An elderly man near the gate was anxious to help us take a group picture, but apparently had little experience with digital cameras. I suspect he was holding the camera backwards since I now have several pictures of him and none of the group.
After maneuvering 7 people into a cab for the 5th or 6th time, we headed to Teatro Colòn, a famous and elaborate theatre downtown. After discovering admission was required (and another 2 hour tour would be involved) we decided to forfeit the theatre and headed for a laid back local piano bar for dinner. The food was wonderful and champagne was on the house. All agreed that Argentinian hospitality is unbelievable! (we are also becoming accustomed to the South American custom of not receiving the bill until we request it, leading to countless 3 and 4 hour meals.) Fortunately, we remembered that the boat to Uruguay would be leaving at at 8am, and called it an early night, heading back to the hostal around 2.
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